Pentax K-5 DSLR Lab Test and more!

Pentax K-5 DSLR Lab Test and more!	View this email online

	February 24, 2011 Breaking news from America's top photo magazines From the Forums: What is the best way to recover images from a corrupted card? Our readers share their thoughts. Join and Contribute!

	Lab Test: Pentax K-5 DSLR This rugged new DSLR is tough to beat. The Best Services for Printing Your Photo Books We sampled 10 of the most popular companies, see which ones provided the best overall experience. How To: Optimize a Landscape in Photoshop Five tips to makes your scenics great. Gallery: I, Photographer, Museum Shooter Robert Hasimoto documents the art institute of Chicago. Photo of the Day Think your photos have what it takes to be named Photo of the Day? Then upload your best shots to our Flickr page. See the whole gallery here TECH SUPPORT Why Midrange Apertures are Sharper Judging by reader mail, there’s still some confusion out there about aperture selection and image sharpness. While smaller apertures (e.g., f/22) produce deeper slices of sharpness from front to back, the central focused-upon subject of your picture will usually always be sharper when captured by an intermediate aperture (e.g., f/8). Why? Because of diffraction. When light rays strike an object, such as the diaphragm blades of a lens, the rays tend to bend or diffract, an action that adversely affects sharpness. When you set your smallest aperture, a greater percentage of all the light rays transmitted through the lens are diffracted, resulting in a subject that’s relatively fuzzy compared to what’s possible with the less-diffracted rays typical of wider apertures. And why do the widest apertures (e.g., f/2.8) also produce a relatively fuzzy subject? That’s a subject for another “Tech Support.”

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Gallery: 10 Things You Should Know About Lenses and More!

Gallery: 10 Things You Should Know About Lenses and More!	View this email online

	February 17, 2011 Breaking news from America's top photo magazines From the Forums: What does it mean to be a photographer? Our readers share their thoughts. Join and Contribute!

	Gallery: 10 Things You Should Know About Lenses Getting to know your glass can be a beautiful thing.  How to: Shoot a Fashion Show Like a Pro Make the most of a beautifully hectic shooting situation. Ebay Watch: Platinum Leicas, Pellicle Mirrors, Polaroid Film and More The wildest photography gear up for auction this week. How To: Plan the Perfect Trek to Patagonia Welcome to a land of awe-inspiring mountains, jaw-dropping glaciers, and stunning wilderness. Photo of the Day Think your photos have what it takes to be named Photo of the Day? Then upload your best shots to our Flickr page. See the whole gallery here TECH SUPPORT Colorspaced Q. To make photo books online, Debbie Grossman [in “Picture Books,” November 2010] says, “Save your images in the sRGB color space before uploading.” If you upload in Adobe RGB, your pictures could print flat and is a check box to embed Adobe RGB color profile, with no option to change to sRGB. And I am really confused since I’ve read that you should use Adobe RGB (1998) if you’re going to print your images. So what color space should I use, and how do I do that? A. Adobe RGB is a wider color space than sRGB, and thus can show more colors—so it’s a great idea to shoot your JPEGs in Adobe RGB. You can take advantage of the wider color space when you edit in Photoshop or color-manage your print process at home. Unfortunately, though, the default color space for most devices and software is sRGB. So before you share your photos online, or order prints or a book, you almost always have to convert to in Photoshop, go to Edit > Convert to Profile. Choose sRGB IEC61966-2.1, and click OK. Then, when you’re in the Save As dialogue, be sure to check the box for Embed Color Profile.   =

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